The Beauty of East Saint John

In the past couple weeks I've been getting to know East Saint John. This rough looking, sometimes smelly suburb gets snubbed only by those who don't know any better. I'll admit to it. Until recently I didn't know any better and just I dismissed it as a land of malls and ribbon development. But, with help from locals and by exploring on my own I've come to appreciate East Saint John's hidden wild spaces. It really is a spectacular part of our region.

I don't quite know where to start. There's just too much to say and too many questions to ask. So I'll warn you, this post is going to be scattered. But I have to get it out there, the summer is ending and you need to get your butt to East Saint John! You'll have to forgive me if my terminology isn't accurate. I'd love to hear from East Saint Johnners about name of these places.

Ok, first off, a must-see . If you do one thing in East Saint John then make it Silver Falls. Water roars through this narrow gorge like a freight train off its rails. There are many drops and pools in this gorge with some big falls too. There's a couple large pools that lure both cliff-jumpers, swimmers, and anglers. Follow the narrow path along the edge of the gorge to find ripe beds of bright red cranberries and sweet blueberries. In the past two weeks I've picked about 2 liters of those tart cranberries.

One of the larger drops along Silver Falls


Moving waters

Cranberry season

Silver Falls is easy to reach. From the parking lot off Loch Lomond Road it is about a 10 minute walk through grassy meadows. Follow the path leading from the parking lot past the old metal gate. To avoid some wet spots on the trail stay to the left following the higher ground. This path loops around to the gorge. There's lots to explore up and down the gorge. Hopefully the map below gets you started. The parking lot is across from the Church by the Commercial Drive - Loch Lomond Road Intersection.

Silver Falls Map

Another place that I've had the opportunity to explore through my work is what is known locally as the "Rez". It's not too far from Silver Falls. Just continue along Loch Lomond Road for another 2 km or so. This large lake was once the city water reservoir but has since then become both a wonderful piece of wilderness and an unofficial dump. The lake is surrounded by productive red spruce forest, wetland, and couple brooks. There is a sandy beach with a life guard near the road, while a network of off road trails will take you around the lake and into the forest.

I was excited to learn today that the hidden beauty of the Rez inspired has grass roots group called the Little River Reservoir Assocation. For the past 5 years they have been working to clean up the Rez and make it into a recreational parkland. They have already removed 15 tonnes!!! of garbage and are working to create a trails plans for the site. Good stuff!

Have a look at their website for more information about the Rez and the group.

Plus they were featured in today's Telegraph Journal. Just click the link below for the full article.
"Community support sought for reservoir project"

The Cold Brook marsh along Golden Grove Road


Above Glen Falls

Last night I bicycled out to take photos of a wetland along the Golden Grove Road for work. I was impressed to find an beautiful marsh complete with ducks. As I was taking photos I started to notice cliffs in the background. Large cliffs. I couldn't place them at the time but later at home I located them on a map. A another area, wild and rugged, that will have to be explored. Upstream from the marsh I had heard about a waterfall named Glen Falls. I could see the start of the ravine from the road. It was an unfortunate first impression; tires, shopping carts. But there's deeper beauty to this place that shines through the trash. I dropped my bike in a grassy meadow and discovered two lovely apple trees. This got me excited as I've been thinking more and more about urban fruit harvesting ( Abundance Sheffield in Britain). I'd like to find out who owns these trees because in a couple more weeks there will be quite a harvest.

Two varieties of apples!

Scrambling down the ravine alongside the river, there was plenty of trash, but the usual noise of the city was drowned by the gushing water. At the bottom of the falls was a green cathedral of hardwood trees. The road is only a hundred feet away but I am enclosed in a bubble of nature.

Glen Falls

The green cathedral

Saint John is one wild and beautiful city.
So much to explore!
graham waugh saint john east saint silver falls loch lomond waterfalls new brunswick

Don't forget your Brain!

Sometimes I need to get somewhere.
There's no time to think
Just act, just hit the gas
but
Although my body may arrive
My mind is often left behind.

Does that ever happen to you?

It's not easy traveling fast.
In fact its even hard to react
cause my brain
needs time to adapt
to the place that I've arrived at.

When I travel the countryside
I often have to drive
but if I can I prefer to ride.
Pedaling a bike may seem slow
but at least
It allows my brain to keep pace.
Or maybe it's just the fresh air
And sun on my face.

Last weekend I needed to get back to Saint John after a night in Corn Hill. It was hard leaving the idyllic countryside. My parent's vegetable garden was overflowing, the pond was refreshing, the fields were buzzing, and our dog would have loved a good walk. I could have found a drive to Saint John but where would that have left me? A Zombie, halfway between the country and the city. Instead I chose to bicycle. It was still hard to leave Corn Hill and I was anxious about forgetting my bike pump in the city, but as the miles rolled by I started looking forward to the city. I left in the middle of the afternoon and five hours later I arrived in Saint John with a smile on my face. The key is that I actively arrived, ready to engage in my new surroundings and appreciate the city's brisk bay of fundy air. I was excited to cook supper, catch up on some reading, and call friends about rock climbing the next day. Had I drove, the four hours I could have saved would likely have been widdled away as a zombie. Besides, the bike ride was really fun. Because I was biking instead of driving I got to chat with a young guy that was working in his field of organic hops in Corn Hill. I followed the old transcanada along the Kennebecasis, passing through Hampton, then entering Saint John via Rothesay Avenue. Maybe my brain is slow. But I don't think I'm the only one. So how about we try to give our brains a break once in a while. Walk or ride your bike and give yourself some time to actually arrive.

Ride and Climb on the Kingston Peninsula

My two wheeled, ten speed "escape hatch" from the city

Nothing better than leaving for an adventure straight from work! This evening was a couple weeks ago on a hot day in July. I had my backpack ready to go with some basic climbing gear, warm clothing, and snacks so that by 5 pm I could hit the road. I wanted to bicycle instead of drive to meet my friends Lucas and Kristy at a favorite after work crag near Reed's Point on the Kingston Peninsula across from the Gondola Point Ferry terminal.

Shortly after leaving uptown where I work I crossed the transcanada highway and I got lost, having navigate by feel until I met up with a familiar road farther north. I was bound for the Summerville Ferry that crosses from Millidgeville, just north of Saint John, to the Kingston Peninsula. As I pulled up I passed a line of cars that had been anxiously waiting for the ferry. At busy times of the day car drivers sometimes have to wait for the next boat....not bike riders though! I enjoyed the luxury of boarding and unloading ahead of all the cars. On the ferry I had a few minutes to relax and enjoy the sun glistening over the Kennebecasis River.

On the Kingston Peninsula I rolled through quiet backroads. On my way to Reed's Point I met more barns than cars and got into a good flow rolling hills. The interesting views on this ride occured less often than I expected. The road mainly passes through a thick forest but a there are a handful of panoramic views over the Kennebecasis. And the scenic highlight of the trip occurs just before the descent to Reed's Point. Views are good but I'm not chasing those. The fleeting images I catch as I'm pedalling hard, with my mind focused, are always more memorable.

The road leading down to the Gondola Point Ferry Crossing

I rolled up to the Crag at just before 7 pm. The riding time probably only added up to just over an hour while getting lost and taking the ferry made up the rest of the hour. The crag, which we can Gondola Point, ( although its not in Gondola Point) is set down just below the road on the edge of the Kennebecasis River. It's a great spot to unwind at the end of the day. There are a few great, through short, sport climbing routes. This includes one that has 20 feet of delicate stemming (picture an being inside an open faced book) and another that traverses an overhanging wall over the water!

What a great summer night!

Lucas leading a DeerJaw 5.10 with Kristy on the belay

Lucas Leading MooseJaw 5.10 with the Kennebecasis River in the background

Details:
Where: Kingston Peninsula, near Saint John
Distance: 30 km (oneway) from Uptown Saint John to Gondola Point Ferry.
Directions: See Google Maps below. It's a straight forward route once you reach the Ferry. To get there I went on Somerset Street and Milledgeville Avenue but you'll have to take whatever streets make sense from your origin. Once you're on the Kingston Peninsula, there are no turns to make. Just stay on Route 845 following signs to Gondola Point. The climbing area is approximately 1000 feet before the Reed's Point/Gondola Point Ferry Terminal. There is a small roadside pull out on the water side of the road across from a wet 15 foot cliff. From the roadside pull out, facing the water, head left 30 ft to a steep trail that loops around to the cliffs. The cliffs are directly below the roadside pull out.
Roads: Good condition overall. Some sections are better than others. The surface is mostly pavement with areas of chip seal. (Chip seal is common on backroads. It is tar with rock on top with makes it rougher than pavement) Not many pot holes. Cracks are common yet easily avoidable.
Terrain: Rolling hills with just a couple bigger ones.
Road Conditions: Varied new and old pavement, but overall old 2 lane road with no shoulder. Potholes, cracks, and pavement patches in many places but easy to navigate around.
Traffic: Very little traffic. I was given lots of space by drivers.
Services: There are a couple Convenience Stores along the way.
graham waugh, local motion, saint john, new brunswick, kingston peninsula, cycling, biking, bikes, outdoors, active living, rock climbing

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Back from the Trek!

Woooueee! What a week! Just a quick update for now... I am back from the Fundy Trek, back from the wilderness. This birthday challenge was just what I was looking for. Seven days of hiking in the Fundy Highlands strained my mental determination and battered my body . But all for the better! I saw swaggering forests, mind tingling landscapes and felt lots of pain in my knees!

I want to thank Ross Curtner for hiking the Riverview to Alma section with me. His positive attitude and determination kept me going through many painful miles and set the tone for the rest of the hike! My Parents, Joe and Jane, for providing much needed transportation on either end of the hike and a gear re-supply in Alma. Janelle and Lindsay, two compassionate women I met from Calgary, who I spent two days hobbling behind on my way to the Fundy Footpath. Cory Clark for the keys to his car that was waiting for me at the Big Salmon River.

After I distill the events of last week and slowly get back into the swing of my life in the city I will hopefully find the time to post stories from the trip.

Here are a few photos from the trek that for me capture its highlights. The highlights were the visual surprises created by the shifting light or the tumbling of rapids and the richness that hard work and wilderness imparts to the people I was with and the food I ate.

Day 2, Dried Pepperoni Extravagance for lunch at Laverty Falls

Day 2, Ross at one of the many crossing on the Upper Salmon River Trail.

Day 4, Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee Falls on Brandy Brook


Day 6, My side hike into the Wild Country of Lil' Sal

Day 7, the final day, crunchy walking on Seely Beach

BDay Challenge: Soggy Trails Here We Come!

Tomorrow morning Ross and I will be hitting the Dobson trail after a humongous breakfast. Starting in Riverview we will proceed to walk, and walk, and keep walking past Hayward Pinnacle, likely stopping to camp by water source near the Kent Road. The next day after a breakfast of banock we will proceed to hike the final 25 km to the Coast through Fundy National Park, meeting up with my parents, and hopefully tacking on a extra 10 km to Pointe Wolfe. The whole deal to Pt. Wolfe is about 85 km.

I'll carry on from Point Wolfe solo. Stopping for a day in Walton Glen Canyon ( I can't wait!) and finishing at St. Martins (sort of...actually Big Salmon) on Thursday or Friday.

Ross and I are packing light for the Dobson. We're both really excited to cover this much ground and see how walking ~40 km a day will feel.

localmotion, graham waugh, dobson trail, fundy trek, hiking, new brunswick

Fundy Trek Bday Challenge Update

The Trek starts in 4 days. I can't wait. I want to start now. And as I lay out my hiking schedule I am already feeling bummed that it'll be ending just a few days after I start.

Last night I sat at my kitchen table going over my itinerary once again, thinking about food, building my To Do list, and phoning trip partners. It felt like a night of mundane tasks but all important anyway. I waxed my hiking boots and waterproofed my raincoat.

The Good News from last night is that my friend Paul, a photographer, (http://paulmaybee.wordpress.com/) might be joining me from Saturday to Friday, finishing at Walton Glen so that he can meet up with family that is coming to visit him. We had a great experience hiking Turtle Mountain together this spring and I look forward to spending some more time on the trail with him. Plus he's an excellent photographer.

I plan to Start Saturday in Riverview and finish Friday night at the Big Salmon River.

So Far this is what the itinerary looks like:

Saturday (July 25th) Dobson Trail - Riverview to Campsite past Hayward Pinnacle.
Sunday, Dobson Trail/Fundy Park - Into Alma, or camp just before Alma.
Monday, Fundy Park - Pick up my backpacking equipment in Alma, Hike to Pt. Wolfe
Tuesday, Fundy Footpath - Pt. Wolfe to Martin Head/Quiddy River
Wednesday, Fundy Footpath - Martin Head/Quiddy River to Little Salmon River
Thursday, Walton Glen Canyon - Explore the Walton Glen Canyon. Camp at Little Salmon.
Friday, Fundy Footpath - Little Salmon River to Big Salmon River.

I look forward to having the wilderness amplify my inner dialogue and the opportunity to capture this in writing and drawings.

Getting ready for the Fundy Trek reminds me of a hike I did around the same time last summer. While visiting friends in Waterton National Park I had the opportunity to solo-hike the Tamarack Trail in two days. It was an amazing trail up and down the gravelly red mountains in a dry smokey heat. Forest fires burned across the border in Montana and snow lingered in the mountains.


local motion, graham waugh, fundy footpath, dobson trail, saint john, new brunswick, sussex, hiking, backpacking, fundy,

Ride to the Headwaters Sum-Up

Was it a success? I think this photo sums it up. I snapped it on the flat stretch coming into Corn Hill just a couple miles from home. All in all, a perfect ride. A hundred and some kilometers in about 5 hours. No flats, no breakdowns, good pavement, great views, plenty of water, and a new sense of how compact Southern New Brunswick is.

Smiling on the final stretch into Corn Hill

I realized as I left my appartment in Saint John at 2 pm, that I was nervous. I thought, this is good. It means I'm doing something beyond my comfort zone. Raindrops made me hesitate as I crossed the Courtney Bay causeway but I carried on. It was a boring ride through Loch Lomond and traffic was steady until I passed the airport. I am blown away by the size of Loch Lomond (the lake). I stopped to drink some of its water that I had brought from my tap at home.

After that it was quiet back roads through Upham, Upperton, Hillsdale and all the way to Hammondvale. I followed the Hammond River past fresh cut Hay fields and cow pastures. This was a very mellow and peaceful section of biking. I used this opportunity to snack on carrots and trail mix that filled my pockets. As I turned toward Sussex Corner I crossed the Hammond River for the last time and began a section of big fast hills. Hills so long that on the way down you reach terminal velocity.

And old barn in Hillsdale with one summit of Saddleback Mountain in the background


Looking over spokes at the community at farm country near Sussex Corner

Wide open fields near Sussex Corner

I made it to Sussex Corner, hooped and hollered to myself, then swung through downtown to get water at Winter Wood Natural Foods. Being on my bike for the first time in Sussex it occured to me that this is a perfect town for day to day biking. Its completely flat and relatively compact.

The last section of biking, Sussex to Corn Hill, I knew would be the toughest. Not only because I was getting tired but because its got lots of hills.

Hesitant rain started falling as I left Sussex but it wasn't enough to slow me down. Once you get moving on a bike its psychologically hard to stop. After a few kilometers the rain stopped and the warm wind dried my shirt. I past more freshly cut Hay fields, big barns, and front yard vegetable gardens. My pedalling slowed on the straight aways and now I was for the first time using the easiest of my ten speeds on most of the hills. With about 12 kilometers to go I decided it was time to pull out my secret weapon...Sauerkraut! I ate a few mouthfuls of my homemade energizer and life flowed back into my legs. I'm not sure what it is about homemade fermented sauerkraut but it gives a huge rush of nearly hyperactive energy.

Looking west down the valley towards Sussex

The last hill, the killer, just before pulling into my parents' driveway

My dad biked out to join me for the last kilometer and together we sped our way up the final hill which just also happens to be steepest hill of the entire route! And as we turned into my parent's drive way, it started to rain. Which is a fitting way to end the journey to the top of a watershed. That night we enjoyed a delicious meal from my parents' organic vegetable garden, topped off with homemade strawberry ice cream from their garden's final berries.

Good Food from the Garden at my folks' place

local motion, graham waugh, bicycling, new brunswick, sussex, saint john, cycling, bike, birthday challenge

Ride to the Headwaters - mini Birthday Challenge

Biking the backroads of Southern New Brunswick

Looking across the Saint John - Petitcodiac Watershed Divide in Corn Hill

This afternoon, for my mini Birthday Challenge (the real deal is the Fundy Trek), I'm bicycling from my house at the Mouth of the Saint John River to the Headwaters of one of it major tributaries, the Kennebecasis River. I grew up in Corn Hill which forms the watershed divide between two of New Brunswick's famous rivers- the Saint John and the Petitcodiac. A good birthday challenge should provide some reflection. As a kid I was obsessed with the creeks near our house, the puddles in our driveway, and even a good rainstorm. So for my 24th birthdday it's fitting to retrace my path through the river network back to Corn Hill.

Since I'm dedicating my ride to water I thought I'd start by tracing the taps from my house back to their source at Loch Lomond in East Saint John. Beyond this I'll continue through Barnesville, Upham, and Hillsdale following the beautiful Hammond River Valley (http://www.hraa.ca/). Near the community of Hammondvale I'll part with this river and head towards Sussex Corner, joining Trout Creek shortly, before I leave Sussex and begin to follow Smiths Creek to Corn Hill.

While watersheds collect and concentrate the rain, our backroads reflect century old carriage paths that took people and their goods from farm to village to town and city. From the hinterlands of the Kennebecasis Watershed, people for thousands of years have walked and floated downstream to Saint John. These age old paths are now paved and impersonal but they can be tamed once again on foot or bike.

I love hearing the old stories of farmboys from Corn Hill biking the 25 km into Sussex for a Friday night dance then biking home again in the wee hours of the night. Although I doubt it would be much fun to ride a single speed bike on those bumpy old dirt roads, the idea of riding my bike get somewhere is very appealing. Biking home today is about more than just a physical challenge, I frankly need to get home. Its my Dad's big 60th birthday party on Saturday and I have a whole day of work to our place ready for it!

As my friend Ross often reminds me, human bodies evolved for motion. We can walk and run more efficiently than any other land animal. And the invention of the bike in the early 1800's increased the efficiency of our human potential once again. Last night I got a lesson on bike mechanics from my friend Lucas, the bike mechanic, as he fixed up my old Nishiki road bike on his backdeck. It's been a couple years since I pedalled 100km. I'll see how it feels to be an efficient human...probably painful :)
graham waugh, local motion, biking, bicycling, cycling, birthday challenge, corn hill, sussex, saint john, kennebecasis, hammond river,


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Ride and Hike to Green Head

The Cliffs of GreenHead

The other night I was looking for an evening bicycle ride and remembered hearing about cliffs at Green Head, Near Dominion Park, in Saint John West. The ride was just what I needed. An hour on my bike and a 2 km hike with a dash of exploring.

I packed some things, a sweater, some water, my headlamp, and a clif bar, then hit the road. I pedaled down Harbour Passage, enjoying the smooth red pavement, then climbed over the hill to the Reversing falls Bridge. After a couple simple turns to the North, I crossed the tiny bridge and found myself on the Rectangular Island that faces into Grand Bay.

When exploring a new area I like to bike to the end of roads so that I can develop a mental map of the place. So I followed the main road, soon arriving at Dominion Park Beach. The beach was not my scene. 'Man Trucks' blared crappy radio rock in the parking lot, while people slammed back pop from the canteen. No cliffs in sight. I turned to the remaining road on the island, climbed a steep hill on my bike and came across a woods road that went North. (On google maps this is labeled as an extension of Greenhead Road.) This road has been blocked off with a few large boulders. Eager to find some wilderness and knowing there was still a lot of Island left to the North, I stashed my bike and started hiking.

I followed this straigt forward ATV road for 2 km, admiring the big old forest, and soaking up spectacular views from a powerline clearing on the highland. Big forested hills rumpling into the sparking water, reminding me of hiking along the Saanich Peninsula, just north of Victoria, BC. The road ended at a small cove that was backed by tall limestone cliffs. I was blown away by the rugged landscape. The site has been a quarry once and bizarre formations remain.

I scrambled up scree slopes and walked along narrow limestone ridges that reminded me of hiking in the Canadian Rockies near Canmore. The rock was identical. The cliffs were tall and held some potential for rock climbing. Though, like I had heard the most impressive face, 100 ft of slightly overhanging blank rock, was nearly completely blank. The bulk of it was devoid of cracks and holds. But beautiful in its own right. The 50-60 foot rambling cliffs on either side of the big face could hold easier sport routes. And I did see the potential for a line through a large flake that would only require a couple bolts to protect the top third. If quarrying had taken place on this face, then nature had hidden the scars. The rock was clean and weathered.

The MainFace, big, intimidating, and seriously lacking hand holds.

I ran into a young couple that regularly enjoying hike in the area. They informed me that the cave, up on the cliff, was at least 100 ft deep and was a popular spot for caving. These two carried on to scramble up one of the cliffs.

This area is also a popular party spot with empty beer bottles in abundance. In my experience, Moose Light is the number one beer bottle tossed in the woods (Coors light cans are close behind). I wonder why this is? Apparently Moosehead has the bush-party/camp market cornered in New Brunswick. Is it the "wild" or "nature" appeal of the name "moosehead"? And why do these manly outdoors men drink "Light" beer? This was the case on Turtle Mountain. The tough guys in their loaded Jeeps, who spray painted naked women on the cliffs, handed us bottles of Moose Light as they drove off the Mountain. I wonder if Moosehead, who is a proud community partner for many events, realizes that its product is often left as trash in the woods?

I soaked up the last of the warm sun from a mini ridge line, overlooking the sparkling bay, banked by countless layers of mountains in the distance. Lots of people enjoy this natural space. Even the ones who leave their garbage behind. I'm glad they use it. We all need some wild in our lives. But what has caused them to accept leaving trash behind? This gives me something to to think about on the ride home.

Local Motion, graham waugh, hiking, saint john, dominion park, green head, cycling, biking routes, cliffs, rock climbing, explore, exploring, road rides,
----------------
DIY

Where: Saint John West
Distance: 9 km (oneway) from Uptown Saint John to trail head. 2 km (oneway) along ATV trails to cove and cliffs.
Directions: See Google Maps below. From Uptown take Harbour Passage and the Reversing Falls Bridge. Veer Right at Simms Corner, then right again onto Manawagonish Road, and right onto Church Street, and right again onto Greenhead Road. Pass the prominent Church, go down the long hill, cross the small bridge, and keep right on Greenhead Road. Climb to the top of the short hill. This road loops back around to Dominion Park Beach.
The trail head, is marked on the map by the white circle. It is at the top of the hill, directly across from a house. It is marked by a few big stones to keep traffic out. On this trail, stay on the main path. There are couple small side trails, but its obvious that these are not used as much. At the power lines follow the trail to the left and down the big hill. The hike climbs and descends several hills but is relatively easy.
Roads: It's a straight forward route, requiring a minimum of city riding, despite being through the city. Smooth pavement for most of it. Harbour passage is easy to ride and there is a section, though short, of bike lane on Church street. This route is easy to navigate on the way to Green Head because it is all right hand turns.


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Mellow Pedaling to Mispec

We are pretty lucky in Saint John to have so many back roads cutting across a range of landscapes. From the rolling river valley to the Bay of Fundy, cycling provides a great way to experience the regions unique character. Recently I've stumbled upon a cycling gem.

For the past two nights, I've hopped on my bicycle and pedaled down the meandering road to Mispec. After a sedentary day in the office, nothing feels better than propelling myself away from the city in the cool summer air. I find the motion of bicycling soothing to my mind and energizing to my body. Life is better when I bike!

The entire route from Uptown Saint John to Mispec Beach is about 30km round trip. I started getting to know this area in June with shorter excursions along Red Head Road, eventually working up to the 30km route. A regular cyclist will find this route easy, while those looking to improve their endurance and fitness will find this mellow road ideal training ground.

From my house at the bottom of Orange Street on the Saint John Peninsula, I need only navigate city traffic for five minutes before I hit the quiet two-lane Red Head Road that takes me all the way to Mispec. This route was made for biking! I wouldn't call it flat (nothing is flat in Southern New Brunswick!) but the short hills are gentle and just the right length for a quick charge to the top. The road begins at the wide tidal flats near in East Saint John, passes the Red Head Marsh, then on to old farmsteads that contrast with wide watery views of Saint John. On the way out to Mispec the road gradual climbs, providing you with an excellent perspective of the city with its Mountainous backdrop to the North.

At this time of year, a smattering of wild flowers have reclaimed the ditches. Nature is close at hand. Tuesday night I saw a bald eagle swooping at a seagull and last week I studied a red fox that paralled my path for over a hundred feet. Rock outcrops become prominent through the trees and finally when you've reached the height of land in Mispec, the trees break away to Mispec Beach, a gem in the craggy shore. The route's only steep hill brings you to the bridge across Mispec River and an equally steep climb up the otherside. But don't despair, in a few minutes you can pull into Mispec Beach and relax on the flat sandy beach. Tuesday night, I found myself there, totally mesmerized by the endless rippled sand. It was my first time at the beach and I was instantly sucked in by its beauty. I walked over the soft wet sand to the water's edge. The tide was out and over 400 feet of flat beach was exposed. The flatness of the beach is extentuated by the rocky headlands that thrust out on either side. That night a half dozen couples and families were strolling the beach. Teenagers had found some space to hang out on the rocks and young girls were eating ice cream purchased from the canteen. And despite the big honking Liquified Natural Gas Towers of Canaport...the view is still incredible, though I have to admit I felt like I was looking at the lair of some James Bond villain.

So if you live in Central Saint John, this incredible beach is only a 35 minute pedal from your door. That's so quick! Really, what is 35 minutes? With the round trip clocking in at just over an hour, you could do this tonite! Do it for exercise, for freewheeling freedom, or to earn an apetite for a picnic on the beach.

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Details:
Start: From Uptown cross the Courtney Bay Causeway, turn Right onto Bayside Drive, then Right again onto the Red Head Road.
Distance: 30 km out and back from Uptown Saint John ( round trip). Can shorten ride by turning around at any point.
Terrain: Flat - Mellow Hills, a slight general climb towards Mispec
Road Conditions: Varied new and old pavement, but overall old 2 lane road with no shoulder. Potholes, cracks, and pavement patches in many places but easy to navigate around.
Traffic: The 60 km/hr Speed Limit keeps traffic mellow, but rushhour has low to moderate traffic
Services: Conveniance store at midway point, water available from canteen and washrooms at Mispec Beach.
More informaion:
http://www.new-brunswick.net/Saint_John/mispec/mispec.html
http://saintjohnlifeonyourterms.blogspot.com/2008/08/morning-at-mispec-beach.html

Saint John, Local Motion, New BRunswick, Outdoors, Biking, Adventure, Graham Waugh

Fundy Trek....18 Days to go!

The Fundy Coastline from Martin Head (photo credit Greg McCracken)

Join me on the Fundy Trek between July 26th and August 1st
for my 24th Birthday Challenge.

I decided that this year for my 24th birthday I needed to set a challenge for myself. I guess it all started last year when for my birthday I climbed the Cardiac Arrete Route on the Grand Sentinel near Lake Louise. At the time it was slightly over my head. I'd never tried anything like it before. My friend James and I hiked over 28 km that day, with 800m elevation, and froze our asses on a 4 pitch 5.10c sport route. We stumbled back to the car in the empty parking lot at dusk with smiles on our faces. It was the best birthday in a long time and an excellent way to start my 23rd year. Check out these incredible birthday challenges, http://www.birthdaychallenge.com/index2.html.

After throwing around a lot of ideas I have finally settled on attempting the Fundy Trek. It's a ~125km trail from Riverview to St. Martin's through the dramatic Fundy Highlands. I got the idea from www.fundyfootpath.info. This will be a challenge for me since (1) I've never completed a backpacking trip of this length. My trips in the past have been limited to 2-3 day hikes. (2) I'm unfamiliar with these trails.

The Trek links the 50 year old Dobson Trail (~ 60 km) with the renowned Fundy Footpath (~45km), with trails in Fundy National Park (~20km). The Fundy Trek traverses some of this regions most wild places. Last summer on an overnight hike to Martin Head, my Dad and I found Mossy Rainforests, Giant Hardwoods, Huge Waterfalls, beaches, incredible coastal cliffs. We are so lucky to have this wilderness in our backyard. In fact it was recently designated at a UNESCO Fundy Biosphere Reserve due to its unique biological and geological nature. This hike has garnered a reputation as a serious physical challenge with heady logistics due to the many river crossing near the world's high tides! As it says on the Fundy Footpath website, "This is where the Appalachians meet the Sea".

For practical reasons I decided to delay my "birthday challenge" until the end of July. (My Birthday is July 16th, I'll have a mini-challenge on that day). I'm taking the last week of July off work (27th to 31st), which gives me 9 days to work with. My current plan is to start in Riverview around the 26 or 27th of July. I plan to hike the Dobson Trail as fast and light as possible. When I arrive in Alma I'll pick up my extra gear and food before starting the Fundy Footpath. Mid-way along the Fundy Footpath I want to take a day to explore the Eye of the Needle and the cliffs of Walton Glen Canyon. Check out these links:
http://waterfallsnewbrunswick.ca/?p=210
http://doingstuffoutdoors.com/2007/11/19/through-the-eye-of-the-needle/

The trail has several sections, providing ample opportunities for others to join me for 1 to 4 day chunks. I've learnt that hiking is more enjoyable with people and my hope is that others will come along to share the experience. I've found that the best number for backpacking trips is 3-5 people.

Here are some Options for joining me:
Major Sections:
- Dobson trail (2-3 days)
- Fundy Park (1-2 days)
- Footpath (4 days)
- the whole thing! (6-8 days.)
Minor Sections:
- Join me from Hayward Pinnacle near Elgin and hike to Shepody Road in the Park. ~ 20 km?
- Shepody Road to Alma in Fundy National Park. ~15 km?
- Alma to Goose Creek in Fundy National Park. ~15 km?
- Martin Head to St. Martins (accessible by logging road with a truck). ~35 km

In the coming days I'll be providing more information about my itinery. Please contact me if you are interested in joining me or have advice on trail logistics. Contact me at grhmwgh@gmail.com or 506.647.6588


A Misty Morning at the Mouth of the Quiddy River near Martin Head. Look at the size of this Valley. Think about what it took to create that. Now look at the photograph below. My Dad snapped that photo near the start of our hike. Again its the Quiddy River but wait a minute, how did that little river create such a big Valley? The glaciers that flattened the tops of these appalachian mountains also eroded huge river valleys. And those valleys are what make the Fundy Foot path so demanding.

Trail Info
Fundy Footpath http://www.fundyfootpath.info/
Dobson Trail http://timestranscript.canadaeast.com/rss/article/497528
Fundy National Park http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nb/fundy/index_e.asp

The High Rollers of Kings County

Thump thump thump, my heart pounds in my throat as I take three leaps up the scree slope and brace into a tree. Wiping sweat from my eyes I look for cliffs through the lush jungle. After I left the car this morning, the sun came out to cook the week's rain turning the valley into a muggy greenhouse. The climbing is slow but at least the elevation provides a benchmark for my progress. I'm drawn up this hill to a silent cliff that flanks the ridge.

I spied the cliff last winter while driving back to Sussex after hiking with my dad near St. Martin's. Driving home through the Hammond River Valley my face was glued to the window staring up at the big swollen mountains covered in snow and hardwoods. These are the remains of old Appalachian Mountains. Smoothed over millions of years into high whale-like ridges and giant building waves ready to crash into the valleys below. In this High Roller Country, the names of the communities speak the narrative of the land; Hillsdale, Upham, Upperton, and Mount Prospect.

I jog up the last of the scree slope and reach the base of the brown cliff. Whoa. What I saw from the road was just the forehead of the cliff face. Below the canopy the cliff runs along for a couple hundred meters. In most places it rises over 50 feet to break through the canopy. I explore the base, skirting around fern covered boulders, and admiring the rock formations. I startle a turkey vulture which explodes over my head and breaks into flight over the valley, joining its partner in arching turns.

I scramble around to reach the top, finding a perch overlooking the valley. In front of me the Hammond River snakes below a wide green mountain. To the East I can just see the back of Saddleback Mountain, and to the Southwest I can see the wedge of Mt. Prospect steeply rising above Upperton. Pristine White clouds pile up into the blue sky and sun is catching mist rising out of the forest. I sit there imagining hiking and skiing trails coursing through these hills. Hardwood forests, steep climbs, ridge and gaps. The raw ingredients are here among the High Rollers of Kings County.

Growing up in New Brunswick, I didn't imagine places like this existing around here. I thought they were only found in far away exotic destinations. This little cliff may be no comparison to soaring cliffs of the Rockies but remember that this is not the Rockies. This is here. We are here. You might just find that the surprise in your backyard holds more significance than a tourist destination half a world away. Since coming back to New Brunswick I have been finding more and more wild areas just like this. The unexpected discoveries suddenly fill spaces in my mind the size of Mountains. And I've realized that I can have my life here and adventure too!

Unfortunately I forgot my camera that day :(
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DIY:
I encourage you to explore the High Rollers of Kings County. If you spend a bit of time driving (or biking) around the hills south of Hampton ( Titusville-Upham-Upperton-Hillsdale) you'll soon find a ridge or mountain that catches your eye. Pack some food and safety gear (compass, whistle, map, etc.) and go exploring. Remember that this area is almost entirely private land, so be respectful of that. I'll also warn you that bushwhacking is hard work, progress may be slow. It's also easy to get disorientated and loose your bearings. You're blind exploring now could someday help the development of trails in this area. The country roads in this area would also make for an excellent day of cycling.

Turtle Mountain Trip

Just Wilderness?

Over the long weekend in May my friends Ross and Paul and I backpacked into Turtle Mountain. That's the mystical turtle shell that you can see from the highway just north of Saint John. Like I said in an earlier post we saw some of New Brunswick's best and worst characteristics.

Paul prepared a great write up about our Turtle Mountain backpacking trip on his blog. Thanks Paul!

You can check out Paul's detailed write up and extensive photos by following this link.

BEWARE! If you like surprises and the thrill of discovering places on your own, you should seriously reconsider reading his post until you've done the hike yourself.

http://paulmaybee.wordpress.com/2009/05/31/turtle-mountain/

SW Miramichi Run

Early morning steam on the Miramichi.

Last weekend everything lined up for a perfect canoe trip along the South West Miramichi. The SW Miramichi is just one many branches of the Greater Miramichi System. We settled on a two day trip between Boiestown and Upper Blacksville. Friends and a local outfitter O'Donnells, tolds us that it was sure to have lots of water, no serious rapids, and enjoyable scenery.

All 14 paddlers, across two generations, met Friday night at a friend's cottage on the river near Boiestown. We enjoyed a relaxing evening on the shore watching the sunset around a bonfire. The sun was cooking in the morning as we loaded the canoes and pushed off into the first shallow rapids.

The river carried us along, passing beaches, hardwood stands, and camps. We dodged a handful of fly fishers and zipped through some mellow rapids. We stopped for a picnic lunch on cobble beach under the shade of maples. Later on we stopped for a swim at a narrow spot where we had fun floating with the fast current. I think we were all surprised how warm the water was.

After a full day of paddling ( and floating!) we passed Doaktown and began our search for a campsite. We had heard you could camp on the islands but weren't sure which one to pick. Of course flowing downstream doesn't give you much chance to compare islands. Once you're past an island it's gone. We landed on a cobble beach that looked suitable but found uneven cobble. There was head scratching, speculating, pacing, and canoes began searching the nearby shores. We heard of a better site downstream so a gang went investigate. We found a cathedral growth maple forest with ferns up to our waists. Nearby was a better cobble beach which held some hope for camping. We signalled for the other boats. I was determined to make this site work but luckily others were less into it since further exploring discovered a beautiful sandy site nearby.

I think everyone was pretty relieved at that point to have reached a consensus. It was a wonderful spot to pitch tents and have a bonfire. We felt quite remote despite catching glimpses of a cottage on a the far bank. It was amazing arriving at this perfect camping site without seeing any trace of human's having been here. I think part of the wilderness feeling is the sensation that you are the first person to have touched a place in a long time.

We had a gourmet supper, including salmon (from home! not fresh!) and salads, thanks to many great cooks. We sat around the fire on logs we plucked from the river, laughing, and watching nighthawks swoop for insects in the darkening sky. The wind carried a hint of rain and brought dark clouds overhead. But even the rumbling thunder didn't prepare us for the explosion of wind and rain that ensued. I think some sleep was lost while the sky danced but we stayed dry in our tents. I woke up in the morning to a oppressive heat. Ross later described the feeling in our tent well. "I felt like I was in a muggy greenhouse, I couldn't get a breath of air." For the second day in a row the pressure was high and the sun was hot.

The group on the second morning. Look at that Sand! What a Campsite!

Leaving our campsite for day two on the river.

The second day on the river took as through steep valleys again, past cottages, down mellow rapids, and a into widening river. We sped down the Miramichi with the wind at our backs. For lunch we stopped on an another island, nestled down behind a knoll and picnic'd in the sun. We enjoyed pickles, peanut butter, cheese, and hot pepper on pitas. Which as you can probably tell signified the end of our food reserves.

We pulled out at the Upper Blacksville bridge after traveling around 50 km in our day and a half on the river. O'Donnell's, a local outfitter, shuttled our drivers back to Boiestown where the cars had been left. It was impressive to drive back to Boiestown and see how far we had travelled.

I think the consensus was great company, perfect weather, good food, and next year we're going to go bigger!

Thank you Joe, Gudi, Lee, Ruel, Mike, Laura, Linda, Dave, Cathy, Lenny, Mom, Dad, and Ross for all the laughs. I look forward to next year!

Biking Hinterland

Hinterland: a rural area surrounding the urban catchment of large cities or ports. It is characterized by a less dense population and low infrastructure that produces food and goods for the city. In England it refers to the "back country" or "surrounding countryside."

This Victoria Day Weekend I got away to Turtle Mountain with two friends. We enjoyed the hot sun on Saturday while on Sunday we relished in the coziness that cooking under a tarp in the rain can bring. I'll write more about this later. For now I'll just say we saw some of New Brunswick's best and worst characteristics.

Last Monday was an overcast drizzly day. Late in the afternoon, I felt the urge to get out pedaling. I threw together a few things in my backpack and hit the road on my old 10 speed bike. My goal was to see a new part of Saint John.

I headed North, on familiar streets at first, until I wound up hills past Rockwood Park and the University. Without a map I was free to explore with only my memory to get me home. I continued along rocky forests and sparsely populated areas until I came to a sign for the Millidgeville Ferry. I made a snap decision and turned to the water.

On the 15 minute Ferry ride I soaked up the Kennebecasis River and scanned the rocky Kingston Peninsula coast for beaches. I was amazed to see rugged undeveloped coastline so close to the city. Chatting with the Ferry operator prepared me for the steep hill I had in store on the other side. Of course, that's the story of Ferry Landings, always at the bottom of the hill.

On the Kingston Peninsula, in a community called Summerland, I pedaled along forests and farmlands. In the passing fields I could see Rhubarb patches tucked around old sheds and budding apple tree orchards. At every hillcrest I caught glimpes of the Old Appalachian Mountains rolling along on the north of the Kingston Peninsula.

I pedalled around thinking of the old days when the Peninsula was the breadbasket of Saint John and Southern New Brunswick. The Peninsula has the fortune of sitting at the intersection of two major waterways; The St. John River and the Kennebecasis River. In the 1800's the river was Main Street and sail boats carried hand made and farm raised goods up and down river.

The richness of the land is still felt on those country roads. On a bike, moving at a human pace, you can retrace history past the hedgerows and cow pastures. This is Saint John's hinterland.

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DIY

The Kingston Peninsula provides excellent bike trips of all lengths whether for an afternoon, saturday morning, or day long endurance ride. You'll find low traffic and lots of rolling hills.

Starting from home and crossing over to the Kingston Peninsula by Ferry on your bike will help you realize the significance of the waterways. There are multiple Ferries, all of which are free.
http://www.gnb.ca/0113/ferries/ferries-e.asp
http://www.kingstonpeninsula.org/

Saint John, Local Motion, New BRunswick, Outdoors, Biking, Adventure, Graham Waugh

A Pick Up Truck with Fins

Last night a couple friends and I picked up a case of beer and biked out to the beach in West Saint John. Arriving after dark, we were surprised to find crowds of people leaving the beach. That's when we learned of the beached shark.

We got on the rock beach and split from the groups of people huddled around flashlight beams. We found a good sitting rock, cracked open a beer and looked out over the black sky. Tanker ships glowed like little cities on the horizon. The lapping surf drowned the city and left us alone on the coast. With a case of beer and much conversation behind us, we got up, shook off the sand and went searching for the shark.

Following the narrow tunnel cast by Ross's mini bike light we moved across the beach looking for the beast. When we came upon it's dark grey body we thought we'd found a whale. It's belly rose up to my waist and it was easily longer than a Pick Up truck. But dorsal fins, gills, and the vertical symmetry of its tail gave it away as shark. Sadly, but not surprisingly the head had been cut off and removed, for the jaws and teeth no doubt. It probably was a harmless plankton-filtering Basking Shark but I'm no expert.

There are beautiful, wild things in those cold Fundy waters.

Approximate Spring

Approximate Spring
Learning to Add and Subtract
Cold Rain and Warm Snow

I live in a house.
Drink coffee and flush toilets.
I drive cars and use stoves.

Living in dry warmth
Keeps Nature's Indecision
At bay, behind glass

Separation is
Clearly freedom to decide
In this transition

We can play outside
While Spring tries to makes its mind
Or just pout inside.

This month, I spent a Weekend in Halifax soaking up ideas; and another in Rumney, Hew Hampshire rock climbing above hardwood forests. The constant thought of climbing clings to my head like hair. Back in Saint John today, we went cliff exploring near Upham where the little appalachians were blanketed in sticky snow. A friendly man wheelbarrowing gravel in his yard showed us the way. "Follow the creek up the hill through the forest. Watch out for loose rock." As the creek ended we found ourself in a cathedral of ancient hardwoods. Walking on the hillside shoulder we imagined skiing the bowls and biking the rolls. Above us a stood a tantalizing 60 foot cliff on the mountain top.

More climbs? More potential? There are gifts for the energetic.

Thawing our Minds

Packing tonight for a weekend in Halifax has given me some time to slow down. At the start of this new month I thought I'd better give an update.

March was a busy month. Many late nights lead to groggy mornings as I worked to finish my Travel Journal. I accomplished my self imposed deadline of the first of Spring, getting a few copies out to family. It became apparent that my Travel Journal would need some minor edits so I've spent a few more late nights polishing it up. And today the first of spring I've got a dozen copies on hand and have shipped one to a friend in France.

For one of the first times in my life I'm crushed to see winter fade. The days of crisp air, sparkling sun, and blue ice are sadly over. This winter was very good to me. Thanks to my new Saint John friends I got in over 11 days of ice climbing this winter. The final day came on the second day of spring in Welsford. Under the spell of our eyes we watched the ice crash down. That afternoon rock season started. In our mountaineering boots we bumbled our way up some easy climbs. The cross country skiing this winter was excellent. Though I'm disheartened to announce that one of my old wood skis snapped. During an ice climbing adventure I got to try out alpine touring skiing and since then some research has lead me to an interest in Karhu XCD skis.

This winter taught me that the fun never has to stop. Winter adventures on skis or ice are perhaps more thrilling then what we can achieve in the warmer months. The world gets bigger every winter. Hollows and ridges are transformed into canyons and mountaintops. Tramping through a fresh powder snow on a sunner saturday morning I've breathed the freshest air of my life. And in the dead of winter there's nothing like standing in the sun watching steam rise from my bare hands. That's the beauty of moving. It's stokes your furnace. Getting outside and moving in the winter is the cure for winter blues.

From my observations, New Brunswickers give up 5 months of their year. Five months spent inside waiting for the spring to come. Just as much at the office as at the hardware store you'll hear grumbles like aftershocks of the most recent snow storm. Cold snaps are communicated by the stomping of feet on door mats. "You hear there's more snow coming on Thursday?" The neighbour replies "Jeez, not again. I tell you there's no use for that stuff."

That's 5 months that we slow down, cease up, and withdraw from the world. Our minds freeze. That accounts for almost half a lifetime! Anyone who exercise regularly knows that the mind slows down when the body slows down. So it leads me to wonder what 5 months of inactivity is doing to the minds of New Brunswickers? If we've collectively lost out on 5 months of the year what decade does that put us in as a society? It's not just New Brunswick. I'd assume that colder climates across North America suffer from this mental freeze as well.

The solution may involve getting red faced and sweaty. Aerobic activity is the cure. You need to keep the fresh oxygen circulating to your brain. Awaken those brain cells. Among the gammit of walking, jogging, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, skating, and stacking firewood there is always an activity for the conditions. Cross country skiing is my favorite. There's nothing quite like that smooth motion.

Imagine what a revival of winter could do to cold climate societies everywhere. Bodies energized, minds buzzing, we'll leave Half-Life behind. The society that captures this forgotten time will rocket ahead in happiness and prosperity... and will probably look pretty good in their fitted coats too!

You're probably thinking "ugh, now I have to wait til next winter." Not so! Mud Season is upon us! Put on some waterproof boots aka rubber boots and get hiking. It's an excellent time of year to catch excellent views through the leafless trees, hike in comfortable temperatures, and revel in a world free of blackflies. I've already gotten in two sunny, summer ish days of rock climbing.